Travels with Susan Spano

People, Places, Stuff


July 14, 2015

Tags: Drought, Armenia, California

I hear thereís a drought in California. The worst in recorded history.
Donít blame me. I used to suck up a lot of California water, never could train myself to turn off the faucet while brushing my teeth. But last year I joined the Peace Corps and moved to Armenia, where I teach English in the town of Ashtarak about 30 miles north of the capital. On a clear day I can see snow-capped Mount Ararat from my kitchen window, which makes me thirsty this summer, with the temperature stuck around 100 degrees.
Despite the heat, weíve got a lot of very good water in Ashtarak. The River Kasagh pumps it out of the Caucasus Mountains to the north and once or twice a day I see it boiling through a system of open irrigation channels built in the Middle Ages.
Here itís delivery thatís the problem. Though workmen are always digging up the streets, the infrastructure remains as it was in 1991 when the Soviet Union collapsed and Armenia claimed its independence. Then, too, thereís the matter of corruption which reaches deep into the utility business, recently sparking Electric Yerevan demonstrations in the capital.
In Ashtarak we have water from eight to nine in the morning and from nine to ten at night. People who have enough money install tanks and pumps which fill up when the water runs and can later be switched on to tide them over. Iím hoping to find funds to install tanks and pumps at my school, so kids can wash their hands after they use the bathrooms. On the home front, I spent about $200 to put a water storage system in my one-bedroom, Soviet-era apartment. It took several months to perfect, but now I can have a reasonably satisfying shower whenever I want.
Itís a different Peace Corps in Armenia, without grass huts, dedicated to the more complex needs of a developing nation.
My bathroom has horrible concrete walls, gigantic water bugs and a toilet that wonít flush because needed parts are no longer available, my landlady told me. That sent me online to research the inner workings of the toilet, an early 19th century invention involving such paraphernalia as flapper valves, overflow tubes and ball floats that I perused at my local hardware store where theyíve come to know me as the village idiot.
Then I gave up and learned to pour water into the bowl after using the facilities, which is really all thatís needed to make a gravity-powered flushing system work. I also learned not to throw pipe-clogging toilet paper into the bowl, which means I must take my trash to the bins down the block every day. No one else here needs to do that. Thereís just about nothing they throw away.
Why am I telling you all this?
Really, all I want to say is that having to understand and deal with an antiquated toilet and limited water supply has made me think, and conserve. Though I must admit that I still let the water run while brushing my teeth.
From the first annual SPEAK UP! contest, June 23, 2018, Muhanga, Rwanda

Syracuse Archaeological Museum, Sicily

Proshyan School bathroom with water tank

Takar and Kataro are my favorite Armenia reds

School time in Armenia.

Garni Temple, Armenia

Big Sur from Soberanes Point


Artichoke Pickers by Henriette Shore

On the way to the beach

Jalama Beach, CA

Hello, little sea urchin!

Famous Jalama Beach Burger

Three by Peter Hessler

Spring time on the Big Sur Coast


Jalama Beach, CA

Motya Charioteer. Image from

Laboratory for Atmospheres, NASA

Homesick for Rome

Therme Vals in Switzerland

At Vogelsgang

National Socialist Party poster from Vogelsgang

Palm Springs

Image courtesy of Tylas at English Wikipedia

Vintage Naples Historic District

From Palm Cottage

Borobudur frieze; Buddha's life

Borobudur at sunrise

Shikellamy State Park in Pennsylvania

Tacoma Narrows Bridge

Image courtesy of Politics and Prose

Image courtesy of John Wehrheim.

Lotusland in Montecito, CA

Ganna Walska of Lotusland

Image courtesy of Flickr user ViaMoi.

Conques Church. Image courtesy of Flickr user Seligr.

Weiming Lake, Peking University. Image courtesy of Flickr user ImGump.

The Coral Casino at the Four Seasons Biltmore Hotel near Santa Barbara

Agrodome, Rotorua, New Zealand. Image courtesy of Flickr user _gem_.

Vandalized images at Painted Rock

Painted Rock, Carrizo Plain National Monument

Mesa Verde National Park. Courtesy Wikipedia Commons user BenFrantzDale.

A map of Chicago, Illinois, imprinted in 1913 from the United States Geographical Surveyís historical topographic map collection. Image courtesy of the USGS.

Image courtesy of Flickr user hattiesburgmemory.

Cristo Redentor, Rio de Janeiro. Image courtesy of Flickr user alobos flickr.

Image courtesy of Flickr user joiseyshowaa.

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Selected Works

Nonfiction, Travel, Human Interest
A new collection of travel essays by Susan Spano
Tracking Colette in Paris and Burgundy
A draught sinks Lake Powell, revealing lost wonders of Glen Canyon
Rome's Most Roman Neighborhood
Studying Mandarin in Beijing
Around the world and back to New York
Nonfiction Book
Divorce. Why do we do it? And what does it do to us? fourteen prominent writers have pondered these questions and have set down heir thoughts and personal stories, in this gathering of sometimes irreverent and always intelligent essays. "A disarmingly candid, invaluable collection." --Publishers Weekly
"Anyone who doubts that men, too, suffer in divorce should be required to read this." --Glamour Magazine "A rare, unusually focused anthology of original essays that both entertains and instructs." --Publishers Weekly

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